Which wheel do i bleed first

Pressure bleeding is recommended to ensure all air has been purged from the system. Manual bleeding can also be utilized, but additional time will be required. The brakes should be bled in the following sequence:. If pressure builds when bleeding the base system, attach the fluid hose from the pressure bleeder 2 to the special cap 1 on the master cylinder 3 see Figure 2.

Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn to obtain a steady stream of brake fluid. After approximately ounces of brake fluid has been bled, close the bleeder screw. NOTE: Be sure the flow of brake fluid is free of air before closing the bleed screw. Check and adjust the brake fluid level to the FULL mark on the reservoir before proceeding to bleed the next wheel. Bleed all four wheels, then check the feel of the brake pedal.

It should be solid. If the feel is spongy or soft, air is still present. If the brakes are being bled manually, have a helper pump the brake pedal three or four times, then hold down the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw. When the brake pedal drops, close the bleeder screw. Here is a rough illustration:. So, hopefully you can see via this illustration that if you are bleeding the 3rd closest wheel, there isn't any fluid flowing past the branch to the Fourth closest.

However, when you are bleeding the 3rd closest, there is fluid flowing past the Second and 1st closest, meaning that you still need to bleed those when you're done with the third closest.

Edit: As pointed out in the comments, you should always refer to your manufacturer's instructions for the correct maintenance procedure for this and any other maintenance you perform on your vehicle. What I've provided here is just an explanation as to why the rule of thumb exists regarding a standard order for bleeding brakes. I did both calipers on my 98 Cavalier. I did the R. It worked fine, but I didn't believe it mattered. It seemed the driver side took a lot longer to get the air out, so I guess I did it right.

Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group. Create a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. Does the brake bleeding sequence really matter? Ask Question. STEP When you've completed bleeding all four brakes, ask your assistant to apply full effort to the brake pedal followed by an abrupt release of that effort.

Observe the motion of the fluid in the master-cylinder reservoir. If there is a substantial fluid eruption, there are air bubbles still trapped in the system. You must repeat the bleeding procedure to remove that air. A modest disturbance in the fluid, however, indicates a properly bled brake system. STEP Double-check that all the bleeder screws are tight.

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Brake Maintenance. These are the telltale signs of air in the braking system, which happens over time with use. There are a few different ways air can enter your braking system, and all of them involve brake fluid. Your brakes are a hydraulic system, which means that fluid makes them work. Pressing the brake pedal shoves brake fluid out to the brakes at the four corners of your car. In a disc brake, fluid pushing into the brake caliper is what moves your brake pads inward to clamp down on the rotor and slow the car using that friction.

Many cars still use drum brakes in the rear since the front brakes do most of the work. As pads wear down, it takes more fluid to press them onto the braking surface. If you let your brake pads wear so thin that the brake fluid level drops too low in the master cylinder reservoir where you fill the system with fluid, this can introduce some bubbles into the brake lines.

Air is much easier to compress than liquid, so bubbles in your brake lines act like a very soft spring in that solid column of brake fluid between your foot and the brake calipers or drums. Bleeding the brakes will flush that air out.

Over time, brake fluid becomes contaminated with atmospheric dirt and abrasive metal wear particles from moving parts in the brake cylinders and calipers. Just like with a pot on the stove, boiling fluid makes springy air bubbles. High temperatures also degrade the alcohol-based fluid itself. Eventually, brake fluid that was relatively clear when it went in may start to look more like coffee.

Antilock braking systems are even less tolerant of contaminated fluid and air than systems without ABS. The ABS hydraulic pump operates at several thousand psi, forcing brake fluid through very small valves. This can whip air and brake fluid into a latte-like foam, which makes bleeding air out of the system even more difficult. Worse yet, the ABS pump and valves can easily be damaged by those tiny abrasive particles. Fortunately, air that enters the ABS controller can be bled out.