97 nissan altima where is the knock sensor

Ran fine for a month, then it did it again with the same results. Then, someone at work began sabotaging my car they cut the return fuel line where it comes out of the tank underneath the car, ended up having to replace the fuel pump and fuel filter in the process, then they pulled the same hose off after loosening the clamp that I had tightened using all of my strength, then they busted the fuel filter and it had to be replaced a second time.

So… all the while, the stumbling started happening more frequently, slowly, more and more… then a misfire started, just not constantly. Since I literally do not have one single dime to pay a professional to fix it, I started attempting to undertake this task myself.

On a scale of 1 to 10, my mechanical skills are about a 2 3 if i tell enough lies to make me look good, lol. Here is my question yes, this was all necessary.

I have been told by several people that there are plenty of things that can case the car to throw a Po without the knock sensor really being bad. I do have one spark plug that has not been changed in a looooong time due to the fact that the previous owner never changed the plug wires, and one of the wires closest to the power steering reservoir had gotten so damaged from age that pieces of it broke off and fell into the plug well between the wall of the plug and the plug, so I cannot get a socket down there to save my lives.

Bought some picks to dig it out but I cannot see down there well enough to get it out. If this plug is really bad and missing, how easy would it be for it to cause the knock sensor to return a code and force the car to act like the sensor is bad, because I have every single symptom of a bad knock sensor. I cannot test the knock sensor.

I cannot get to it by any means. If you rewatch the video you made about a 2. Mine is just way way way more greasy and dirty and so on…. PS… My throttle body was quite filthy too, but it is gonna be cleaned very soon. Also, I have already cleaned the MAF. In short, I am penniless literally and little to no mechanical skill. Getting another car is not an option either per the money issue. Locate the knock sensor on the front of the engine, just below the center fuel injector. The sensor looks like a small black ring with a wire attached to it and has a bolt in the center.

It mounts on the outer surface of the cylinder head. Follow the wiring harness pigtail along its length until you find the connector where it meets the engine wiring harness. Release the locking tab on the connector and separate the two halves.

Move back to the sensor and remove the retaining bolt with a wrench, then remove the sensor from the head. Position the new sensor on the head and install the retaining bolt through the center of the sensor.

Tighten the bolt with a socket and ratchet, then run the wiring harness pigtail to the engine wiring harness, following the same path the old pigtail used.

Connect the pigtail to the wiring harness connector, pushing the two halves together until they lock in place. Connect the negative battery cable to the negative battery terminal on the battery.

Install the retaining bolt and tighten it with a wrench. After many years of working in auto parts and service positions, Killian decided to move into journalism full-time.